Grimaldi’s coal fired pizza coming Houston
Grimaldi’s Pizzeria is due to open a location in First Colony Mall, which should be the first coal fired pizza oven to the Houston area, by my count. Grimaldi’s has long been one of the top pizza spots in Brooklyn and might be just interesting enough to make me drive down to Sugarland for the first time since the Burning Pear self destructed so spectacularly several years ago. I am an admitted Tornado Burger addict, but that’s not quite Sugarland.
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Grimaldi’s has long carried the torch for the coal fired oven movement, making them a favorite target by pizza purists. Only the interstate BBQ wars seem to fan the flames hotter than pizza cooking techniques. On one end, the authenticity-nazi Vera Pizza Napoletana association goes to the extreme of dictating the exact cooking rules and ingridients, certifying only those willing to conform to the traditional definition with German precision. On the other are the irreverent immigrant types that dare to challenge the pizza establishment by tweaking the heat source and introducing illegal toppings.
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While the traditional Neapolitan pizza is made in a wood fired oven, New York immigrants that opened some of the earliest pizzerias in the US claim that coal ovens produce a better pie. Coal generates a more intense heat that chars and flavors the crust, while wood fired ovens seem to give more of a balance between the crisp edge and chewy crust. Results can be surprisingly different when the technique is changed in even the slightest way.
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In recent years, just to make things interesting, Mario Batali became hell bent on making the pizza at Otto on a griddle, setting off the ultimate heat source flame war in NYC once again. Most of this drama has completely bypassed Houston, where pizza doesn’t quite occupy our Texan psyche as much as smoked mead. Otto may have inspired Marco Wiles to open Dolce Vita, but he uses a wood burning oven and makes a better pizza than Mario Batali, so there isn’t much controversy there. Maybe the opening of Grimaldi’s will set a stage for a good old fashioned food fight in Texas.
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Grimaldi’s web site lists a couple of remote outposts, which seem to be operated by franchisees, rather than the original owners. No word on who owns the Houston location or why they are here in the first place. I question the logic of locating a pizza restaurant that holds ingredients and cooking technique in First Colony Mall. Tom Delay may have left town and a few good restaurants are reportedly doing well in Sugarland, but it’s still a suburban wasteland populated by robots that value “value” more than the nuances introduced by a coal fired oven. Still, a similar location recently opened in Dallas and seems to still be open, so it should be worth a try.
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16 comments
It’s “Sugar Land”… Sugarland is a band.
Incorrect. Russo’s New York Pizzeria is the first coal fired
You are right. Grimaldi’s was supposed to have been open for some time now but got delayed for some reason, so Russo’s is definitely first. I went out there a couple of weeks ago and they do make a good pie. I’ll post the photos soon.
/ …still waiting on Grimaldi’s to open
/ sigh :(
I got tired of waiting and went to the one in Dallas. It’s quite excellent. I’ll post pictures soon.
^^ Ha!! When were you there…a coworker and myself made a special trip into Dallas on on way back from the Panhandle and got a pie.
It was superb..
Sugar Land idiot! And we love Sugar Land so kiss off!
[...] in February I wrote about Grimaldi’s Pizzeria which was set to become first in Houston to use a coal fired oven. [...]
“Robots…”? Get over yourself, how chic to take a stab at the suburbs, you’ve just got rebel written all over you don’t you? Loser.
“Sugar Land” is two words, as others have pointed out. If you’re going to insult our town, at least get the spelling right.
Sorry we’re not cultured enough for your tastes. Really.
I am not bending. Every house looks the same, the streets are crispy and clean, golf courses abound, chain restaurant on every corner. It’s not the end of the world, but it is the very definition of suburbia. You live there because you value those things, so why get all bent out of shape when someone calls them out?
I don’t think Sugarland (I like this spelling better) lacks culture. It lacks character and maybe just a bit of common sense. Who else continues to re-elect an invertebrate like Tom Delay year after year until he is forcibly removed from office?
I prefer Sugar Land myself.
But back to the topic at hand, Grimaldi’s was supposed to be opened but was delayed for a few minor issues. I have high hopes for this restaurant. I hope to see you all there for Family and Friends Night!
Simone: so when does it open? Any plans for other locations in Houston?
Get over yourself Mis Ha or is that Misha?
Bought two large pizzas yesterday. It was awful! The cheese hadn’t cooked, it was too salty and the bottom of BOTH pizzas was burnt! Do not go here! Grimaldi’s is the worst pizza we have ever had; even frozen pizzas taste better!
John: pizza, like everything else, is a personal preference. The good thing is that your pizza was cooked as intended in the NY style pizzeria, so now you know it’s not your thing. Higher quality mozzarella has lower moisture content and does not melt into a goo when cooked. I think it tastes better, personally. The charred crust is part of the NY pie experience. The slightly bitter flavor and the chewy crust adds another dimension, which makes NY pizza unique.
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