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Masraff’s review in Houston Press

Robb Walsh reviews Masraff’s in Houston Press this week and finds surprisingly great food, despite their clubby atmosphere. So true. I don’t make it out to Masraff’s very often, but almost every one of my 7-8 visits over the years has been consistently good.

It’s not the most exciting cooking in the world, but its almost always well executed and somehow delivers on point. You could say the same of places like Mockingbird Bistro and Cafe Annie, although they are much more visible than Masraff’s because they have named chefs with personalities that draw attention. Masraff’s, meanwhile, is almost invisible on the food circuit, relying mostly on their aging Tanglewood clientèle.

Masraff’s is worth a visit. Dress like you’re going to a funeral, gas up the 7-series and dye your hair gray. You’ll fit right in.

March 7, 2008   2 Comments