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Masraff’s review in Houston Press

Robb Walsh reviews Masraff’s in Houston Press this week and finds surprisingly great food, despite their clubby atmosphere. So true. I don’t make it out to Masraff’s very often, but almost every one of my 7-8 visits over the years has been consistently good.

It’s not the most exciting cooking in the world, but its almost always well executed and somehow delivers on point. You could say the same of places like Mockingbird Bistro and Cafe Annie, although they are much more visible than Masraff’s because they have named chefs with personalities that draw attention. Masraff’s, meanwhile, is almost invisible on the food circuit, relying mostly on their aging Tanglewood clientèle.

Masraff’s is worth a visit. Dress like you’re going to a funeral, gas up the 7-series and dye your hair gray. You’ll fit right in.

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2 comments

1 Alison Cook { 03.30.08 at 10:59 am }

I had one dismal meal here eons ago. And I mean truly dismal, made the more so by the prices.
Never could summon the courage to return. Perhaps I should reconsider?

2 Misha { 03.30.08 at 4:50 pm }

I haven’t been there in over a year, but it has been a reliable place for a business meeting and a definite step up from Post Oak Grill & McCormick and Schmick’s. I tend to go for the soups, seafood/shellfish dishes and sandwiches. Pasta is usually overdressed, risotto mostly overcooked, chicken dishes are dry. Never really tried meat dishes there, but a few lunch companions were happy with theirs. I’d play it safe and go for lunch.

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