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Sydney notes: Ricotta hotcakes @ bills Woollahra, Paddington Markets

By the way of Cook’s Tour a story about Bill Granger, a popular Australian chef who’s specialty are simply prepared breakfast and lunch dishes in a casual neighborhood diner setting. Granger’s bills restaurants are is a popular local hangout where you can get a newspaper, a cup of coffee and order the best eggs in the world next to Nicole Kidman or a lesser celebrity. A new spot in Tokyo is now open in addition to the three locations of bills in Sydney.

I visited the Woollahra location of bills when I was in Sydney earlier this year. It was a good way to see how the locals spend their weekend. Woollahra is a great neighborhood similar to the north end of the Houston Heights, with cafes, shops and antique stores within steps of each other. A half block away from bills is Bistro Moncur, a surprisingly casual French place (bistros are actually casual in Sydney, what a concept), which Sydney Morning Herald gives a rare two chefs hats rating and served me a rather awful meal on my last night in the city. A bit further away is Whole Foods, an organics store that seems to have stolen their identity and maybe the name itself from the US counterpart.

I skipped the world famous eggs at bills. My own recipe and technique, developed in near anonymity I must say, is almost exactly the same, although I don’t go nearly as heavy on the cream. I did order Ricotta Hotcakes with Fresh Banana and Honeycomb Butter, which is one of the most popular dishes among the locals. Sad to say the hotcakes were a disappointment. Like many dishes I had in Sydney they were entirely unseasoned and ricotta without even a smallest trace of salt (or sugar for that matter) is a fairly bland and uninteresting affair.

I think Sydneysiders would go bananas if they could taste some of the Breakfast Klub creations, although it would probably have to be called Brekkie Klub down under.

The hotcakes may be lame, but people in Sydney know how to enjoy life in a much more casual and laid back way than we do in America, where brunch can become an overdressed and fussy affair. In Sydney, you throw on some sandals and shorts, get a cup of joe at bills and walk a half mile down to Paddington Markets, which attracts a small, but vibrant crowd looking for used records, books, arts, crafts and jewelry. It’s a nice way to pass the time. I just wish the griddle cakes were better.

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4 comments

1 Jeff in Seabrook { 04.03.08 at 2:50 pm }

Off topic, but I enjoyed your Top Chef recap on Alison’s blog. You write well and have an interesting take on the show (but Sonny and Tubbs?).

2 Misha { 04.04.08 at 1:07 am }

I always thought Sonny and Tubbs had a homo erotic thing going on. No?

3 Alison Cook { 04.04.08 at 9:15 am }

I wonder why they don’t season in Sydney. Any theories?

Too bad about those hotcakes. They look good, anyway. They remind me that while I am in VT. I must locate my favorite Maine-ground buckwheat flour, which makes seriously great pancakes.

4 Misha { 04.04.08 at 1:36 pm }

It might be a local preference. I find that level of seasoning and flavor intensity varies greatly by region, so it’s not surprising that Australian dishes are modified to suit local tastes. I went to Guzman Y Gomez, the most “authentic” Mexican restaurant in Sydney that looked just like Chipotle type place and the conversations around us were most amusing. People were sending their tacos back because their mildest roasted tomato salsa was too spicy. The medium sauce was an oddly named Pico de Gallo and the hottest was the tomatillo salsa, like one part Ninfa’s green dip one part water. I ended up asking for the forbidden habanero sauce they had hidden behind the counter, which they only gave me after I explained to them that I am from Texas. Oddly enough it didn’t taste like much either.

Same story played out all over the city. A Taiwanese restaurant in the heart of Chinatown was incredibly bland, but a Goan restaurant in a shady part of town by the fish market was very aggressive with flavors. I really wish we had something similar in Houston. They had a combination of Portuguese and Indian dishes that would work very well here. The closest I have been able to come are the Goan curry dishes at Indika.

A lot of highly rated Australian stuff was a major letdown, but some places were unexpectedly excellent. I need to post the rest my pictures from the trip.

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