It wasn’t my original destination, but I ended up having a great dinner at Gravitas (although it would have been better had the waiter not forgotten we ordered a cheese plate). It has been about a year since my last visit and the menu has gotten a bit more interesting.
Most of the staples, the gruyere spatzle, the weekly blue plate specials and pastas are still there. Better still, the excellent caesar topped with a poached egg is still served as well. But there also seem to be a few a more appealing entrees, too. Enough so that it definitely warrants a few return visits.
The onion bread pudding, one of my favorites from the Pic menu, is now back at Gravitas. I wouldn’t mind trying the duck legs with roasted beets, either. Beets are appearing in all sorts of places all of the sudden, which is one food trend I can live with long term. Beets taste good and the more people realize it the better humanity will be as a whole.
I still think Gravitas plays it too safe, but maybe they are close to striking a good balance between having a menu that’s both constantly changing and consistently reliable at the same time.
My whole roasted snapper, served with incredibly sweet tomatoes, was very good, but the Atlantic salmon was the best entree I tasted. Fish dishes too often rely just on quality of the product alone to carry the flavor, but this dish had a most intense interplay between the acid from the grapefruit, the olive oil dressing and the texture of the crisped salmon skin. Definitely worth trying if you want to experience Gravitas at it’s best.
Some photos from tonight:
An interesting aside. Shortly before I left I noticed a couple unceremoniously push their way towards the kitchen and proceed to pepper the staff with questions. Turns out they had met either Scott Tycer or Jason Gould in Aspen at some point and felt like they needed to announce themselves to the chef. I wonder if people who cook for a living wish for simpler times when could work in peace… I don’t know how I’d react if someone got in my face like that.
BTW, the Gravitas wine guy has a blog. You can find it here.
May 25, 2008 5 Comments