The stealthy food guy over at Food in Houston made another incognito visit to Feast and he likes it even more than before. Naturally, I couldn’t stop myself from whipping out yet another set of Feast photos.
I’ve been trying to come up with a way to appear slightly less Feast obsessed than I really am, but it’s proving difficult. Maybe it’s time to start a booster club. This is what happens when a restaurant doesn’t require a dress code (a rather idiotic concept in hotter than hell Houston) and serves up a constantly changing menu put together by people who really care about food.
Feast has finally began to tweak their original concept and it’s heading in the right direction. Lunch now offers 3 courses for $22, which speaks right to my sensibilities. I am utterly unable to order in moderation, so I end up with these massive lunches, simply because there are so many things I want to try on the menu. Now I can go to Feast even more frequently and not go broke or have a heart attack in the process.
Better still, at least at lunch the giant entrees have been sized down a bit and lighter dishes are beginning to appear more and more. I was really worried what would happen to this restaurant when people refused to eat pork cheeks and braised lamb shanks in the middle of the summer. Apparently they are going to eat skate salad and stuffed squid. Brilliant!
On the menu:
Spicy Lamb Sausage Cous Cous – I thought a larger variety of cour cous or grain might have worked slightly better in this dish, but the lamb sausage was stellar.
Whole Shrimp with Garlic and Butter – full of flavor and very teder, but a bit hard to peel; doesn’t the book say you have to shock shellfish after cooking?
Squid stuffed with chorizo – cooked whole and stuffed with cured Spanish chorizo, this thing looked glorious on the plate and was absolutely delicious.
Beef Braised with Steelcut Oats and Chocolate served with Potatoes and Carrots – I got to try a bit of this and it was quite good and had an unusual taste I have never encountered before. Much closer to some of the flavors you find in roux-based Louisiana dishes, than Mexican mole’s made with chocolate.
Skate Salad with Caperberries – excellent dish, very simply and lightly dressed with a vinaigrette and flavored further by pickled caperberries, which I have never had before in this particular form. I don’t know if people consider this a summer dish, but I have no trouble eating this as a starter or a main this time a year.
Pork Cheeks, Pierogies and Red Cabbage – more cheeks with that peculiar cross cut the Feast guys seem to love, but the pierogi stuffed with cheese and pan roasted were the real deal. The guy who ordered it wasn’t really into them, so I ended eating most of what was left. Our waitress quite pleased with her self when she came by and found me fighting over the scraps with one of my other friends.
Turns out she made the pierogies using an old family recipe from her Polish grandmother, which had a different texture and filling to dough ratio than the more traditional version served at Polonia. Dumplings are a staple of eastern European cuisine, but in the US you rarely come across the full range of what you mind find in Polish, Ukranian and Russian homes that use recipes handed down through generations. Yet another reason I love Feast.
Maybe they can do some sour cherry stuffed vareniki for an encore? I NEVER see this stuff stateside.
Desserts – good, but no major fireworks here. I had Spotted Dick with Custard, my friends had Bread and Whisky Pudding and Honey and Cinnamon Ice Cream.
May 26, 2008 6 Comments