Um… lame?
I didn’t really think much of Bistro Toulouse on my first visit when I had a soggy mac and cheese overloaded with stringy cheese and heavy cream, but completely changed my mind several months later when I stopped by again and had the stellar Pear-Y Winkle sandwich.
Irritating name aside, this thing was absolutely awesome. More of a burger than a sandwich, it was built around a perfect medium-rate lamb patty with a good bit of crust as a centerpiece and finished off with a goat cheese, poached pears and field greens. All the flavors combined in a really nice way, blowing away countless burgers with far more serious names and intentions.
Within days Bistro Toulouse was closed, to be replaced with yet another Barnaby’s. As if what Houston needs are more restaurants named after deceased dogs that serve badly prepared food.
Meanwhile, Michael Scott Castell, the chef who owned Bistro Toulouse, has taken a job as a head chef at Brenner’s Steakhouse. The same Brenner’s bought out by Tillman Fertita as he continues his push upmarket, assumingly to wash away the sins of Joe’s Crab Shack and Rainforest Cafe.
So I am having trouble deciding. A great independent spot closes, an insipid mini-chain takes it’s place and the chef/owner is now grilling steaks for Tillman Fertitia. Is the world really a better place? And where am I supposed to get my lamb burgers now?
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5 comments
I’ve found your blog through the Cook’s Tour and the recent reviews of Feast. Seeing this post made me want to post a comment.
I actually enjoy Barnaby’s and their take on upscale diner/comfort food. The hamburgers are actually one of the best ones in town. And the meatloaf and lasagna are pretty good for a quick dinner. I’m looking forward to the new location since it will be outside the loop and 10 minutes from my house. I also think a few other critics enjoy it.
not every meal can be sweatbreads or pork cheeks.
I never said Barnaby’s wasn’t popular, I just think their cooking isn’t all that great. It’s obviously a personal preference. Barnaby’s is always packed, so someone out there likes them and I have no doubt that their Woodway location will do great. I’d be a huge Barnaby’s fan if the food was better, but the only thing consistently good there are the ribs. At least at the Shepherd location they seem to be unable to cook anything to medium rare. Steaks come out overdone and completely unseasoned. Burgers are only served on a whole wheat buns, which is a deal killer for me. If you are going to do the upscale comfort food thing, then don’t patronize people with forcing them to make “healthy” choices that mess with the staples.
I still believe Tanglewood was better off with Bistro Toulouse. The food was just as accessible as Barnaby’s, priced in the similar range, flavors were better and most important - the guy who ran the kitchen also owned the place and obviously cared. That’s why I went back even when after the first thing I tried there wasn’t all that great. Now he is cooking for the Tillman, who will no doubt destroy his will to live. I think that’s pretty lame.
By the way, you’re absolutely right. Not every meal should be sweetbreads or pork cheeks. That’s why Fox Diner was so great. But Barnaby’s is no Fox Diner. Not even close.
I agree with both of you. Not every meal should be ultra-fancy, but it should at least be good. Barnaby’s isn’t. And I’ve given it ample opportunities… *sigh*
Tilman Fertitta is ruining the world one restaurant at a time. Hopefully Castell will be an exception to the Landry’s Corporation rule of crappy, overpriced food in tacky restaurants.
Well that’s typical; I’d finally come to like Bistro Toulouse and they hit the skids. I lived in Tanglewood in 2004 and after three or more tries at the Bistro, I gave up. The service was true to it’s name sake, replete with scornful and mostly absent attentions. The food seemed to come from the retirement-home kitchen next door; over-cooked mashed potatoes and meat that no amount of salt could reinvigorate. However in April I was forced back by a horde of pushy co-workers, one of whom’s birthday we were celebrating, and she chose Bistro Toulouse. I was taken aback by what was a totally different experience. The service was attentive, knowledgeable about the food and ignored my attitude about having to be there- until the food arrived. My salmon was perfect, the steamed vegetables al dente and nicely seasoned. I had plans to return; what a shame. I’m a sucker for independent establishments and it’s what Houston’s best cuisine is founded on.
I had a similar experience around 2000. The space and the name was taken over by a new chef/owner sometime in 2005 or 2006, which is when the food took a turn for the better.
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