18
Jul
08

Reviews worth eating

McCrady’s has been on my short list for a while, but Chuck’s review makes it official - I have to find a reason to go to Charleston. I have no idea why people visit Charleston or how a city that small can even sustain a restaurant as ambitious as McCrady’s, but it’s almost irrelevant at this point.

What sealed the deal for me is the concept of modern dishes that integrate regional flavors, which is the very aspect that makes Restaurant August such an exciting place to eat. The Woodlands location of America’s is heading in the same direction, but its still far from a food-first restaurant built around a chef’s vision.

Oyster, Ham Consommé, Cornbread
It would be hard to find a more haute southern dish than this - the mix of the oyster’s brininess and the consomme’s saltiness provided the backbone of the dish. Brock takes his ham seriously (can you say Alan Benton?) and I suspect it finds its way into more dishes than I realized.

I’d go just for that one dish alone. Maybe there is a chance Sean Brock will follow Michael Kramer and end up in Houston?

I booked a table at L2O in Chicago not long after it opened, when it was still flying under the radar. Some of the early reviews are surprisingly strong and photos of Laurent Gras creations look absolutely stunning.

20080514_L2O-01_061  Extra 1: Ossetra Caviar (toro, avocado)  

I am re-visiting Alinea the night before my dinner at L2O, but I am starting to wonder which meal I will be more excited about by the time I arrive in Chicago.

Monkey Tail Fern  L20.1901.web


4 Responses to “Reviews worth eating”


  1. 1 Chan Jul 18th, 2008 at 9:06 am

    I visited Charleston for half a week in the summer of 2006. It’s a beautiful town. The locals refer to it as the “Hamptons of the South”, so I suppose it gets its fair share of tourism. The regional lowcountry cuisine is definitely a treat (frogmore stew- who doesn’t love seafood boils?). I’d certainly would like to go back one day and stay for a longer time.

  2. 2 GiGi Jul 22nd, 2008 at 12:11 pm

    I tagged you on my blog!

  3. 3 TRace Jul 27th, 2008 at 9:19 pm

    I’m from Houston but now chef in Carolina. You should get to McCardy’s, the food is gorgeous. sean is a friend of mine and truly a really nice guy. they have a 3 acre of farm for the restaurant. 70 heirloom tomato plants….or 3 speedracks full at last count. if you are a food lover he loves to have people come and hang out in his kitchen and cook, all you have to do is ask. I highly recommend it. check out: http://seanbrock.wordpress.com/

  4. 4 Misha Jul 27th, 2008 at 11:30 pm

    Tracie: I fully intend to. It’s going to be a challenge, because I have no good reason to go to Charleston, but I am determined.

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