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Tenacity Supper Club (July 10th)

I’ve been eating well this summer. Maybe a little better than well. Come to think of it, this has been a spectacular year for food. Chicago, Sydney, San Francisco (mostly outside of SF, really), Amsterdam, Paris, Brussels. You’d think that coming back home to Houston after all this would be a bit depressing. Instead, no matter where I end up lately I keep thinking that I am missing yet another gem of a dish at the Tenacity dinner.

Tomorrow I am getting on the plane to Boston and will miss yet another supper club and this one hurts more than usual – the menu this Thursday looks especially great. If you have not been to one of these yet, do yourself a favor and go. I won’t promise that everything you eat will blow you away. Sometimes you might even wonder just what the hell Randy was thinking (don’t tell him that – he is very sensitive), but odds are there will be at least one or two dishes that you’ll think about for a long, long time.

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This happened to me most recently at Alinea, where I was served an excellent smoked cobia dish presented in a bowl with a smoldering splinter of wood that slowly gave off a scent of smoke. It was a very dramatic presentation and the dish really worked. What was I thinking while I was eating it, though? That the smoked cobia I had at a recent Tenacity dinner nailed the flavors much more effectively.

Served with an intense brown butter sauce, that somehow involved no actual butter and really spiked the smokiness of the fish, the cobia was easily the crowd favorite that night. For me, it tied for gold with the warm terrine of wild boars head. Table side pyrotechnics aside, the scrappy supper club in Houston beat out the top table in the country and this is why I hate missing the Tenacity dinners.

 

 

Here’s the rest of the menu that night:

thursday july 10, 3008
barely cooked gulf shrimp & tartare, sprouting radish, kyuri & baby lemongrass
amberjack, leche de tigre,  gelled tomato, rhubarb, yuzu kosho & red veined sorrel
chilled 3rd coast shellfish nage, octopus, neri uni, crunchy pig ear & celery pistou
best parts of the pig, shimeji mushrooms, courgette, marigold & foamed hollandaise
cobia smoked with apple-wood & broiled, red malabar spinach & creamy brown butter
guava smoothie & a sense of coconut déjà vu
corn pudding’, whipped agave nectar, papaya, caramelized dairy & poppy

September 3, 2008   3 Comments