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Beefing with Tenacity

Power back on. No longer living like a nomad. Reservations made for the Albert Roux dinner at Voice (awesome). And I am going to Minneapolis next week, which means I get to visit Heartland for some good Midwestern eating (suspenseful). More important, there is finally enough juice in this city do some proper supper clubbing (thrilling).

Maybe I am having mild withdrawals, but the menu this Thursday looks very, very nice. Past dinners have been summer appropriate – light ingredients and light preparations. The shopping list for this one, however, is pure bovinity – just in time for fall.

supper club & georgia’s grass-fed beef


thursday october 2, 2008

  • cured grass-fed beef, coleslaw cream, crackling & potatoes flavored with beef fat
  • jarred coddled farm eggs, lardo, white toast, bacon bouillon & salad burnet
  • caramelized calf’s liver, baby onions, georgia’s honey & hibiscus flowers
  • charred rib cap, malabar spinach, quince membrillo & smoky salt
  • whole roasted free range chicken laced with black truffles, flowering herbs & lots of butter
  • roasted ribeye of beef, smoked red wine & buttermilk madelines
  • broken pound cake, goat’s milk caramel & foamed raw goat’s milk rice pudding

Contact Randy to reserve a spot. Meanwhile, amuse yourself with a few shots from the dinner on August 6th at the Modern B&B (which is a gorgeous space, BTW). A few choice dishes from that night:


The cured rainbow runner served with macerated citron & fresh cayenne chili was the first time I had come across this uncommon fish, also known as rainbow yellowtail, Spanish jack and Hawaiian salmon. Apparently it was the first for Randy as well, who got by contraband that very morning from Bryan Caswell. Bryan takes his fish pretty seriously and was equally geeked up about it – rainbow runner made an appearance as a special at Reef that night as well, I hear. Either because it was extremely fresh or just because it was a new to me, but the texture and flavor of this fish were superb – as buttery and clean as highest grade Aji with more delicate flesh. Very, very nice.


Without a doubt, the highlight of the night was the shellfish course – gulf shrimp, cauliflower-sesame tapenade & aromatic bubbles. The shrimp was served whole and seemed completely raw, but in fact was carefully disassembled into sections, some of which were barely cooked or cured, and re-assembled again into the shell for the final presentation. The cauliflower-sesame tapenade added a really nice texture to the dish, tasting almost like reconstituted corn meal with none of the corn taste.


Most controversial course – grapefruit confit, mangosteen & lavender, which Randy poached something like 24-25 times to get to almost candied consistency. People who enjoy grapefruit loved this one. I have hated grapefruit all my life and had real trouble with the bitterness, but what struck me was how concentrated the essence of grapefruit was in this dish without sacrificing much of the texture. Love it or hate it, it was a very interesting thing to at least try to eat.

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