Grimaldi’s vs Russo’s Coal Fired Pizza
Back in February I wrote about Grimaldi’s pizzeria which was set to become first in Houston to use a coal fired oven. Almost a year later you can finally get a decent NY style pie (at Russo’s NY Coal Fired Pizzeria) in Houston, but Grimaldi’s has yet to open. I got tired of waiting and went to the location in Dallas to see how the two compare.
I was glad I went. Grimaldi’s in Dallas may look like all the other chain restaurants that vaguely resemble sports bars, but it also turns out one hell of a pizza. Even after I drove my pie to my makeshift hurricane shelter at Radisson hotel that smelled like dead people the pizza was spectacular.
The crust was slightly burned on the bottom and was dotted with burnt bubbles on the top. The tomato sauce was thin and applied conservatively enough to bind the higher than usual quality mozzarella, but not drown the pizza. The best part was the chew resistence you only get with a great crust.
The only place in Houston with a coal fired oven is Russo’s, which looks exactly like all the other NY Pizzeria locations but has a different menu. Aside from the oven Russo’s had two things going in it’s favor (neither had to do with the pizza) when I paid a visit a few months ago:
- The receipts at Russo’s say "Paid in Full", which I chose to interpret as a nod to Eric B. and Rakim.
- The spaghetti with meatballs and sausage were thoughtfully arranged to resemble an erect penis, which I thought was a nice touch. Presentation is important.
The pizza was good, complete with a nicely charred crust and a good chew, but not without it’s problems. My pie was drenched in olive oil to the point where it was seeping out of the bottom, which took away from the effect coal fired heat can have on pizza dough.
Construction and quality of the ingredients left a bit to be desired as well. My friend who ordered some meat lovers bonanza with almost a dozen toppings (against my advice) was less than impressed when his pizza flopped over like a dirty sock. Why go through the trouble of installing a coal fired oven just to put pizzas on the menu that overcrowd the crust?
I ordered a margherita, which has few enough ingredients to allow the crust to maintain consistency and texture. Even if my pizza wasn’t soaked in olive oil, the average quality tomatoes and mozzarella would have taken away from what could be a really great pizza.
I realize I am probably being a bit too critical. All things considered, Russo’s has one of the best pizzas you can get in Houston, but it’s not good enough to make me drive out to the far edge of the city (I’d do it for Grimaldi’s). I’d be thrilled to have one next to my house though, especially if Russo’s put a little more effort into sourcing it’s ingredients.
One last thing - feel free to leave me nasty comments, but at least tell mention how frequently you go to Russo’s. I’d like to know if it has really inspired people to regularly drive 25 miles for a slice, as both of our local food critics claim it can do.
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17 comments
Thanks for the compare/contrast…I live somewhat near the Russo’s, so perhaps I’ll give it a try.
I too like the crispy underside of a pizza from a coal fire…
The only place that I’ve had pizza that was so ethereally good & crispy, with just the right combo sauce to toppings, was Mozza in Los Angeles…of Batali/Silverton fame
A slice of NY pie is so different to me…in the fact that it is quick, easy, almost always good and you can fold it up and take it with you…FORGO THE FLIMSY FLUTED PAPER PLATE (almost alliteration there…:) )
I had a fantastic dinner at Osteria Mozza last week. That place is awesome.
Having moved here from CAlifornia, I’d say that is the crux of the problem with the food I find in restaurants: the quality of the ingredients. I know I’m jaded. But so many places would be so so much better if they would just put some money into ingredients instead of portion size. I’d be a very happy girl. I was looking forward to trying Russos and probably still will, but at least I’ll be forewarned.
My favorite pizzas come from the SF Bay Area: Pizzaiolo; Dopo; Pizzeria Delfina: and the Cheeseboard. Dreamy!
Is Russo’s worth the drive from Sugar Land on a Saturday night?
Sarah: if you are looking for something similar to Pizzeria Delfina then you will probably be very happy with Dolce Vita.
gfly: probably. It’s still one of the best pizzas in Houston, and the best available if you like the East cost style of pizza. You may want skip anything that may soak the crust though, like tomatoes.
^^ Thanks for the reply. May have to give it a shot this weekend and see if it tops Romano’s Pizza, which makes a damn good pie
:D
I just went to Grimaldi’s in Scottsdale last week and found the crust to be pretty floppy, but overall the quality of the ingredients was very good. The floppiness could be because they cover the entire pizza with housemade mozzarella to which we added basil and italian sausage (but no sauce). I don’t know.
I like Russo’s a lot and make the drive from near downtown only when I am visiting friends out in Cypress (maybe once a month). I like their crust better because it has been consistently crispy (even charred), but I agree, the quality of their ingredients could be better. That being said, it’s better than most the pizza around town and they’re opening another coal-fired Russo’s at I-10 and Bunker Hill (south side next to Charming Charlie’s) soon, so I expect we’ll be having coal-fired pizza more often.
Just moved to Houston after 20 years split between NYC and DC. I’ve been on the hunt for great pie here and found considerable happiness with the pies at both Dolce Vita and DaMarco - the latter would stand up against really good competition (A16 in San Francisco and John’s of Bleeker Street in NY - my measuring stick for all pizza). What’s the story with Grimaldi’s opening in Houston? My God, I almost wet myself - are you playing with my emotions??
Chris - it’s Patsy’s Grimaldi’s, which is a chain operating under a franchise from the original. Still, the pie I had was excellent. They still list Sugar Land as a location slated for opening. Meanwhile, try Russo’s Coal Fired Pizzeria on 290. It’s as good as it gets in Houston right now if you are looking for a east coast pie.
I think I am hitting up A16 when I am in SF next week, actually. I thought SPQR was excellent, so I am expecting A16 to be time well spent.
With family in NYC and having been born in Brooklyn, I’ve been able to have a few of the best pies in the city. Joe’s (which I think is what Chris meant when he said John’s), Lombardi’s, Grimaldi’s (the original under the bridge), and my personal favorite… DiFara’s (this guy’s pies are Legendary!).
I got to try the Dallas Grimaldi’s earlier this month and they were great. Not quite as good as the original, but that was kind of expected. Still the best pie I’ve had outside of the big apple. I’m definately open to finding other places to get good pizza, know of any in Austin?
Peter - not in Austin, unfortunately. I do have a recommendation for Sydney if you are ever in Australia - try Pizza Mario @ St Margaret:)
Misha - please get back to us about your experience at A16. It was one of the best meals I’ve ever had - in a very side-street in Italy sort of way, with an added measure of San Francisco sophistication. And the focus on expertly chosen and generally unknown southern Italian wines by the glass was great fun.
this place just nailed it…true new york style pizza i smelled it when i first walked it…i ordered the prociutto pizza,it came out charred and crispy russo is my top choice for pizza i drove up here from clear lake and i am hooked.if you are like me a new yorker this is your home sweet home pizza joint..what a treat.
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Grimaldi’s officially opens at 4:30pm this Thursday, the 29th!
I’m sooo there this weekend :)
I visited russo’s on katy freeway. their oven is a bakers pride, il forno gas. i do not know why russo’s is trying to con us
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