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Pico’s Bakery and Taqueria

Alison Cook posted a first look at Pico’s Bakery and Taqueria, which has become a regular destination for me since it opened a few weeks ago.

I am slowly working my way through the menu, but breakfast and Katz’s Coffee is still the best reason to visit Pico’s Bakery, at least in the morning. Along with the chilaquiles and eggs platters at Gorditas Aguas Calientes about a mile away on Bissonnet they make for one of the best Mexican breakfasts in town.

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The tinga and chilorio meat was as expertly crafted as the cochinita pibil at Pico’s the restaurant, but lack of anything other than meat in the burrito and the generic tortilla didn’t hold my interest. I suspect I’ll get more mileage from the tortas and tacos.

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What Pico’s Bakery does exceptionally well at night are the desserts. Like Alison Cook, I am not the biggest fan of Mexican pastries, but the cakes at Pico’s can be truly outstanding.

For some reason Houston has a dearth of independently owned bakeries. For a while, Rustika turned out some of the cakes in town, but seemed to have lost it’s way a few years ago. Turns out there is a reason for that.

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According to Arnaldo Richards, who owns Pico’s, the woman who did most of the baking at Rustika left around that time.  After some time away from a commercial kitchen, she has partnered with the Pico’s crew to open a bakery. And that’s how Houston got one of it’s best cake masters back.

If you see the chocolate tres leches, grab a few slices. It’s unbelievably good.

April 28, 2009   10 Comments